"perfume is the art that makes memory speak" - Francis Kurkdjian

New Fragrances by L’Artisan Parfumeur: Haute Voltige, Onde Sensuelle and Rappelle – Toi

Posted on February 17th, by What Men Should Smell Like in A Scented Blog. 2 comments

L’Artisan Parfumeur continues its exploration of fragrance as emotion with three new additions to the Explosions d’Emotions Collection that launched in 2013 with inaugural eau de parfums, Skin on Skin, Deliria and Amour Nocturne. Like the first series the perfume boxes are covered in textured paper embossed with motifs specific to each perfume. This time a radiant fuchsia colour has been chosen to differentiate these new additions from the founding three perfumes. The French house’s ‘perfumer-in-residence’, Bertrand Duchaufour takes the collection total to six and the new additions are set for release in May-June 2014. The first fragrance communicates the explosive feeling of joy and the second fragrance is about introspection. The last of the new trio explores the emotion of passion. When I spoke with the perfumer in late November he talked about the collection being a creative vehicle to challenge him “to do something out of the normal, out of what we smell already.” For Les Explosions d’Emotions, Bertrand said, “I wanted to explore new atmospheres, new spheres of scent, new accords and new fragrances. It is supposed to be something completely different, not outrageous but something provocative.” True to his vision, these new fragrances are not outrageous in … Read More »

L’Artisan Parfumeur – Skin on Skin

Posted on January 24th, by What Men Should Smell Like in Floral, G - L, My Collection. 3 comments

In my previous post I wrote of Bertrand Duchaufour’s saffron and rose pairing for Penhaligon’s Vaara. For L’Artisan Parfumeur, the master perfumer works with rose and saffron in an entirely different way. As the title suggests, this is the scent of two bodies in contact. Skin on Skin belongs to L’Artisan Parfumeur’s recently launched collection, Les Explosions d’Emotions. It is a collection that challenged Bertrand to “evoke specific emotions through fragrances.” When I spoke with the perfumer in November he remarked the collection was one that posed “a challenge to do something out of the normal, out of what we smell already. I wanted to explore new atmospheres, new spheres of scent, new accords and new fragrances.”

Over the past decade there has been a mini exodus away from the mainstream as consumers discover niche perfumery. At the start of the revolution, a considerable number of perfume buffs gravitated toward challenging smells, the stinkier the better. Perhaps it was the consumer expressing joy over their newfound freedom from all the mainstream fruity florals perfumes and endless marine-inspired colognes. Their new scented playground became fragrances such as Serge Lutens’ Muscs Koblai Khan, a voracious animalic perfume, which to this day reminds me … Read More »

Penhaligon’s – Vaara

Posted on January 24th, by What Men Should Smell Like in M - R, Woods. 2 comments

India once again lends itself to inspire a modern day perfume story. In this case the story is told by Penhaligon’s, one of England’s oldest and most respected perfume houses. What began as a private commission for India’s Maharaja Gaj Singh of Jodhpur has been reinterpreted and last year it became a permanent addition to the house’s commercial line. The brand’s CEO, Sarah Rotheram and French perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour made several visits to India’s regal state of Rajasthan, to understand the likes and tastes of the Maharaja and to experience the seasonal smells of Jodhpur and the surrounding desert land of Marwar. No stranger to the creation of this style of location perfume, in 2012 Bertrand recreated the scent of dawn in Seville for L’Artisan Parfumeur and blogger/writer Denyse Beaulieu. In the same year he authored three fragrances for Neela Vermeire, inspired by India during three different eras. For Penhaligon’s, Bertrand takes us on another Indian journey in the form of Vaara, an eau de parfum named after the Maharaja’s granddaughter. Unlike Neela Vermeire’s lavishly coloured Mohur, Vaara is a sheer, watercolour portrait of garden flowers. With India offering so many intense colours, smells and tastes to inspire perfumers, it … Read More »

Exploring the Collection: Neela Vermeire Creations

Posted on January 5th, by What Men Should Smell Like in A Scented Blog. 9 comments

For my first blog post of 2014 I wanted to write about Neela Vermeire Creations, a collection of perfumes that pay homage to Creator, Neela Vermeire’s birthplace, India. After spending the past three weeks travelling in India, I feel more connected to these perfumes having experienced India’s diverse smellscape firsthand, even though I have been a fan and follower of Neela since we first met in 2012. I was introduced to Neela, a Paris-based perfume lover turned perfume entrepreneur in Florence, Italy where she was presenting her collection at the annual perfume exposition, Pitti Fragranze. To realize her vision Neela worked with two creatives, both leaders in their respective fields. The first was Bertrand Duchaufour, a French perfumer who needs no introduction to devotees of niche perfumes. As the ‘nose’ behind Neela’s fragrances, Bertrand combined a rich palette of exquisite notes, a true reflection of the perfumer’s modus operandi; innovative perfumes built with the most exceptional raw materials. The other creative Neela worked with was perfume bottle designer Pierre Dinand. Pierre has designed perfume bottles for fashion houses such as Givenchy, Yves Saint Laurent, Giorgio Armani and Calvin Klein. Chances are, if you have worn perfume in the past fifty … Read More »

Talking Perfume with Bertrand Duchaufour

Posted on December 20th, by What Men Should Smell Like in A Scented Blog. 8 comments

Last year I had the fortune of a brief introduction to French perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour. We were introduced in Florence at Pitti Fragranze, one of two annual perfume events in Italy. I was there with The Perfume Magazine and Bertrand was there, no doubt to support the numerous niche perfume brands that have one or more of his creations in their collections. Bertrand is known for his prolific work. Not only is he the “perfumer-in-residence” at the French house L’Artisan Parfumeur and British label Penhaligon’s; his name is credited to perfume titles by Aedes de Venustas, The Different Company, Neela Vermeire Creations, Acqua di Parma, Parfums MDCI…the list goes on. These brands are diverse in aesthetic and geography yet the one thing they have in common is the desire to produce the world’s most innovative and qualitative perfumes. Speaking with Bertrand, I understood why he is the preferred perfumer of these houses. Not only are his perfumes celebrated for their originality and beauty; there is integrity in his work and the perfume houses he works with are aware that Bertrand’s nose for detail comes at a cost. After launching his career inside some of the world’s biggest perfume manufacturing houses, … Read More »


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