Tom Ford – Jonquille de Nuit


Posted on October 15th, by Clayton@What Men Should Smell Like in Floral, S - Z. 23 comments

Tom Ford - Jonquille de Nuit

White flowers add a signature to a perfume that is both loved and loathed. Jasmine is perhaps the most widely appreciated white flower but even jasmine has its share of haters. Tuberose has an even more distinctive signature. Although you can trace its use throughout the decades, it has become a popular note in contemporary perfume with names such as Prada and Mona di Orio creating fragrances centred on the late summer bulb.  Tom Ford clearly wants to stay ahead of the trend launching four new perfumes that walk a floral path less taken. Of the four, for me, it was Jonquille de Nuit that stood above the others in this collection. I love the complexity of green and white florals, from shimmering muguet notes to buttery tuberose accords and jonquil perfumes are rare. But rare does not always translate into popularity. I was the only one in a group of three that liked Ford’s nocturnal jonquil, which is part of the Jardin Noir collection. This quartet of perfumes belongs to the designer’s Private Blend, a range Ford describes as, “my own scent laboratory; it’s where I have the ability to create very special, original fragrances that are unconstrained by the conventions of mainstream scent-making. Private Blend is designed with the true fragrance connoisseur in mind.” Like most Tom Ford perfumes, these new additions aim to be intoxicating, sophisticated and sensual. Jonquille de Nuit is marketed as a unisex fragrance even though it has all of the hallmarks of a classic feminine floral.

Olfactory impressions:

White and green florals are some of my favourite perfume notes. The trouble I often face is that the short-lived heart notes are augmented with base notes that I have no interest in. Van Cleef & Arpels’ Muguet Blanc is one example of a beautiful muguet accord that is filled with sparkle and movement, but for me, the base notes lead the fragrance in another direction. It is a direction that is skilfully directed, but not the reason why I tuned into the perfume to start with. Jonquille de Nuit is a floral perfume that delivers what it promises from the beginning to its end as it is relatively linear in its evolution. The perfume begins with ozonic green flowers, which Fragrantica.com purports as being cyclamen, a close relative to muguet. This accord is coloured purple with notes of violet leaf and leads to narcissus jonquilla, a fresh bouquet of waxy petals. Further on there is orange blossom that could easily be mistaken for tuberose. The base is built around notes of orris and amber. Jonquille de Nuit does not evolve much further than this. Curiously, it manages to extend for hours in the same way Tom Ford’s Neroli Portofino manages to offer a traditionally short-lived eau de cologne in a form that is lasting. Perfect for a day in the sun.

Suggested wearing:

Jonquille de Nuit is a vibrant fresh floral I enjoyed wearing on my recent holiday. Maybe it was my holiday mindset, but for me, it is a perfume that feels carefree and adventurous. I don’t see it gaining widespread appeal amongst males as it is overtly floral, but men who enjoy wearing such things should enjoy this novel flower.

Alternatives:

Van Cleef & Arpels Muguet Blanc, Frederic Malle Lys Mediterranee, Frederic Malle Carnal Flower, Cartier Baiser Vole.

Perfumer: Rodrigo Flores-Roux (Givaudan)

Bottle designer: Tom Ford

Release date: 2012

Typology (via Fragrances of the World): Fresh Floral





23 Responses to “Tom Ford – Jonquille de Nuit”

  1. […] year Jonquil was the new white. This year Magnolia is the new white. Tomorrow we take a peek at an upcoming release featuring this […]

  2. ross kanya says:

    Jonquille de Nuit was my least favorite from Jardin Noir collection. I enjoyed Ombre de Hyacinth the most that i had to get a bottle to my collection. Lys Fume is gorgeous also but more on a feminine side. Cafe Rose is well constructed too, but i much prefer Noir de Noir as my rose scent. Great review by the way!

    • Thanks for adding your thoughts Ross. The friend who was with me in Harrods also prefered Ombre de Hyacinth. The trio is just launching here in Australia (it may already be on shelves) so I am looking forward to going back for a second viewing.

  3. macgr3gr says:

    looking forward to line arriving in qld, interesting how scents change with location. Can’t wait to revisit both jonquille & hyacinth in the heat & humidity

  4. Undina says:

    In my opinion, most previous Private blends were unisex leaning towards masculine and now these four are definitely into the feminine territory. It doesn’t mean a man cannot wear it, I’m just defining their place on the traditional scale.

    I like Jonquille de Nuit (a bottle of it joined my collection recently) but I’m not sure if it’s my most favorite perfume from this quartet – I keep changing my mind.

    • What are you liking about the others Undina? I did like Cafe Rose and could see why it is so popular. And I liked Lys Fume if my memory serves me right. I agree with this new collection being much more feminine than the previous releases. I always think of the Tom Ford woman being very strong and confident. These new scents and even the previous Jasmine Rouge sees shows a much more vulnerable side.

      • Undina says:

        I still prefer earlier Tom Ford’s perfumes – Arabian Wood, Champaca Absolute, Tuscan Leather, Tobacco Vanile and Black Violet are my long time favorites. But I’m getting closer with the new set and see myself wearing JdN from time to time. Café Rose is my least favorite: in this genre I prefer By Kilian Rose Oud or even Atelier Rose Anonyme. Out of four I liked the most the one you didn’t mention – Ombre de Hyacinth. Most likely because I like galbanum and have a soft spot for many perfumes containing it.

        • Cool- I’m looking forward to the line being launched in Australia so I can go back for a second viewing. I remember thinking Cafe Rose was a nicely done eastern rose but like many of the others out there. I was also holding off until I got to Paris to smell Guerlain’s Rose Nacree du Desert. I’m also looking forward to the next men’s fragrance Tom Ford Noir, which wasn’t available in London when I looked at the Jardin Noir collection.

  5. Jordan River says:

    Clayton, you’re rolling on the The Perfume River tonight. Jonquils are The New White. Waft On.

  6. hajusuuri says:

    The last 3 perfumes on the “Try this if you like” list intrigues me. FM Carnal Flower screams BIG WHITE FLORAL to me and not me — I wanted desperately to like it given all the love from perfumistas but alas, it is just NOT me. I liked Cariter Baiser Vole enough to buy a FB and I LOVE / ADORE Prada Infusion d’Iris Absolu. My conclusion – I have to try Jonquille de Nuit and be prepared to either love it or hate it – nothing in between. Thanks for the review.

    • It’s always interesting for me when I come to the end of a post and I have to write this. I’m looking for threads and relationships that I can imagine existing between fragrances. For JdN it wasn’t so much about matching it to an existing perfume but more about finding elements of it I could see in other perfumes. The base reminded me of Prada, the waxiness of lilies in Malle and Cartier, the whiteness in Carnal Flower, so in hindsight, maybe you have to love all those perfumes together to like JdN? In any case, let me know your thoughts if you do smell it- love or hate.

  7. karyesyntii says:

    M

    Thanks! Sent from my Android phone

  8. laniersmith says:

    Thank you professor…. sitting at your feet listening to your review is like siting between Alexander and Hephaestion listening to Aristotle lecture on just what might be the ingredients of Olympian Ambrosia.
    You open doors for me….. thank you.

  9. lucasai says:

    Sounds interesting. And I love Prada Infusion d’Iris Absolue you listed in “try this if you like”
    That’s so bad that Tom Ford Private Blend have a zero availability in Poland. Only Neroli Portofino made it throught.

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