Mimosa Pour Moi follows the tradition of the soliflore perfume. The perfumer dedicates an entire composition to the representation of one flower. At first glance this may seem like a simple idea with little room for creativity. With a little thought you can appreciate the endless possibilities that open up to the perfumer who takes on this type of project. Manipulating the scent of rose, the perfumer can present you with a rose grown in the fields of Grasse, or a fruity Turkish rose, or a rose that has been picked at sunrise, you can still smell the leafy green scent coming from the raw stem that has been separated from the bush. In this sense the soliflore requires more creativity of a perfumer who cannot use other notes to distract the wearer’s attention from a badly composed accord. In today’s market most perfume producers opt out of creating soliflores. They can be a commercial risk, as many consumers prefer more complex scents with savvy ad campaigns. I’m sure most ad agencies would not be too excited by the idea of marketing a scent called jasmine that simply smells of jasmine. Thankfully the tradition is kept alive by many smaller niche perfume houses whose clientele are more appreciative of these simple compositions. L’Artisan’s catalogue is full of them. Anne Flipo created Mimosa Pour Moi in 1992. She has gone on to author many of the brand’s soliflores as well as more commercial projects as a nose for International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF).
Mimosa is not commonly used in perfumery and escapes the gender stereotypes of other flowers such as rose and jasmine. When used, most perfumers play up its feminine side. L’Artisan’s mimosa, while still quite feminine has an air of masculinity about it. I don’t use it often but it is a welcome part of my collection and I love the scent of mimosa. Mimosa Pour Moi begins by showing the greener cucumber-esque side of the flower. Violet, blackcurrant and an abstract floral accord (ylang ylang, narcissus) are present before the fragrance warms up becoming sweet and powdery. Heliotrope and musk are the origin of the marzipan almond note present for the remainder of the fragrance’s life.
This is a festive scent, reserved for special occasions that are cause for celebration. Wear it like you would wear a single flower in your dinner jacket buttonhole. A fragrance to bring out the dandy in you, this one is more nerd than jock.
Jean Paul Gaultier Le Fleur Du Male, Acqua Di Parma Iris Nobile, Christian Dior Bois D’Argent, Acqua Di Parma Blu Mediterraneo Mandorlo Di Sicilia, Etro Gomma
Perfumer: Anne Flipo (Symrise – Creations Aromatiques)
Bottle designer: Frederico Restrepo
Release date: 1992
Typology (via Fragrances of the World): Floral