Cristalle Eau Verte (2009) is the latest of Cristalle incarnations; this one is a departure from the original 1974 version that descends into a dark mossy place after a bright hersperides beginning. The original Cristalle made you feel like you had parachuted through a forest canopy on a beautiful sunny day minutes later finding yourself on the forest floor surrounded by the smell of wet earth, moss and wood. This chypre style of perfume revolves around the use of oakmoss, one of many perfume ingredients that has been outlawed in recent times as we become increasingly cautious of what we allow our skin to come in contact with. Synthetic oakmoss alternatives exist but none of them come close to the effect natural oakmoss absolute has in a perfume composition. Perhaps this is why for Cristalle Eau Verte, perfumer Jacques Polge decided to steer away from Cristalle’s chypre theme and instead pushes the fragrance in an entirely new direction. While this is marketed as a feminine fragrance, most men who enjoy the simplicities of a traditional eau de cologne will have no problem dousing themselves in this exceptional scent.
Chanel’s signature aldehydes create a sparkling citrus effect with lemon and bergamot. A mélange of green and white florals reference magnolia and jasmine. Polge promised to respect the honeysuckle accord used in the original Cristalle. Pairing this with citrus gives a candied lemon effect. It is a modern cologne, the herb note traditionally used in cologne compositions replaced with complex floral accords. Its story is linear and does not evolve past the opening notes. Considering its genre Cristalle Eau Verte has great staying power. After other colognes have evaporated Eau Vert’s green florals can remain for hours.
It takes a confident man to leave the cosmetic counter with a woman’s perfume. Ladies, if you don’t think your partner could bring himself to buy from the women’s department, buy it for yourself and encourage him to use it. It’s a happy fragrance that comes alive in summer. Great for daywear this fragrance’s wearer is clean-cut, energetic and has a positive approach to life. It’s a great choice for wearers who want a scent that does not overpower and is refreshing as post gym workout spritzer.
Acqua Di Parma Colonia, Chanel Eau De Cologne, Guerlain Cologne Du Parfumeur, Hermes Eau De Gentiane Blanc, Hierbas De Ibiza Eau De Cologne, Diptique Oyedo, Christian Dior Escale a Portofino, Annick Goutal Eau D’ Hadrien, Creed Royal Water.
Perfumer: Jacques Polge, Christopher Sheldrake
Bottle designer: Jacques Helleu
Release date: 2009
Typology (via Fragrances of the World): Citrus